Many trainers lead with the horse behind but I like to lead with the horse beside me. I do this simply because I believe it is a matter of safety. As with so many aspects of horsemanship, there are two philosophies about the right way to lead a horse. First, the philosophy of leading with the horse behind is based on the principle that if you are going to be the leader, you need to lead.

Someone recently said to me that she had watched me, Richard Winters and some of the other well known horsemen train and had seen the results and the progress a horse could make in one session. She said that when she went home and tried to do the same things, she had difficulties and did not get the same results. She wanted to know what she was doing wrong.

After reading my article on natural horsemanship and the use of pressure and release, I received some good comments from an individual who works with Mustangs up in the Shasta area. She suggested that we look at letting go of the pressure and take more time working with each horse. Taking the time to allow a horse to let you know when you can move onto the next step in training insures that the horse is ready.

For me, horsemanship is being knowledgeable of and responsible for every aspect of the horse. There are many areas we need to understand and one of the most important is hoof care. Next time I’ll discuss some other important areas.

There is a good deal of discussion now whether horses should be shod or go barefoot. I’m sticking my neck out here but here goes; this is an area where we should use common sense, taking into consideration the health of the feet and the amount and type of activity of the horse.

You have been working with your horse on the ground getting her used to the equipment (bridle, bit, blanket, saddle), and now its time to take that first ride. The purpose of the first two or three rides is to get your horse comfortable with you on her back. You must focus on translating the ground exercises you have already taught into under-saddle cues. If you have been consistent in your cues, you will see that the horse is responsive and easy under saddle, even in the first few rides.

What causes a horse to start biting or kicking? What can we do about it? A horse will bite or kick most frequently in an enclosed area like a stall, a stall and paddock or in cross ties. Every time you approach your horse, you have an opportunity to “read” your horse. As you approach the stall, the horse’s ears may be back or there may be some aggressive behavior like pawing. This may be because you brought a treat and the horse is anxious and demanding. The horse is getting a little cranky, telling you to hurry up and give him the treat. The demeanor of the horse is not pleasant.

I started using a tarp in my training about fifteen to twenty years ago. Since then, the work with a tarp has evolved into a variety of exercises. Ten or fifteen years ago when I was working with a tarp at horse expositions, I was known as the “blue tarp guy” as few clinicians were using this tool.

Foundation training for a young horse is some of the most important training we can give. I feel good about the foundation training program I completed with my 3-year-old, Jaz. I worked with her two or three days a week and during this time she learned a lot: acceptance of a halter, leading, line work, tying, de-spooking and beginning saddle work.